Expedition Blog

View from my hotel room window

We wakened this morning at 3:45 AM (3:45 PM EDT), were in the car to the airport by 4:15, at the airport in Krasnoyarsk at 5:00, through security by 6:00, on the plane at 7:00, and landed in Noril'sk, through security and past the police permission check, into another car, and through the 40 km...

24Jul 2012
Kvass tank, popular all day
Raw milk, available only in the morning
There are many 19th and 20th c wooden houses along the streets
Street scene
Another older house
Street scene
River station, bridge over Yenesei, Alexey and Seth
Typical little street shops: Beer, fish, flowers, kvass, and beer
Sculpture of the artist Surikov
A common style of apartments
Another old house
A little mall

Beautiful, unbelievable, thank you Volodia and  Roma for your efforts, and Russia, for granting our permission! We are off to the airport at 4:15 AM to fly to Noril'sk.

In the meantime, in contrast to yesterday’s apocryphal six disappointments, we have seen several wonders: A man with a...

Across from Krem, the coolest coffeehouse in town
No disrespect to Lenin, who passed through here on his way to 3 years of exile just to the south
Religion, the state, and soccer ball marks
From Tura hunting shop
From Tura museum
Moose and squirrel, literally
Diorama from excellent Tura museum;note hand at left

Still sitting in Krasnoyarsk. Volodia and Roma are in Noril’sk and have petitioned the local security service, and we hope to have an answer by tomorrow evening about our permission. It’s true, our passports are required at every turn (to check into a hotel, to buy tickets on a train, to buy a...

21Jul 2012
Our helicopter
Me with sat phone uplink from the river, Volodia sleeping
Tuff sample with lithic clasts
Sunset on the Nizhnaya Tunguska

In recent chapters we were on fast-forward, helicoptering to sample hilltops, off to the boat again for river outcrops for two days. Giant cliffs of tuff, vain attempts to limit the kilos of samples that make our bags so hard to carry. Now, suddenly, we are stalled, sitting despondently in a...

Basement of the calcite factory in Tura
Campsite on the Nizhnaya Tunguska, west of Tura, east of Nidim
The disco restaurant

As far as busy days go in Russia, this past one was a cake taker.  Let’s start from the start.  The preceding night we dined together, at an hour uncharacteristically south of midnight, in the hotel, on cup-o-noodles, Russian string cheese, a bit of vodka, and chocolates.  After an excellent...